О «Ядах» с любовью. Или полная история Dior Poison

Говоря о Dior даже мало искушенные в парфюмерии люди вероятно припомнят флакончики темного стекла, напоминающие своей формой волшебные яблоки и это вовсе не удивительно, ведь Dior Poison созданный в 1985 году носом Edouard Flechier и положивший начало линейке Poison Christian Dior навсегда вошел в историю мировой парфюмерии.

80-е, были не самым лучшим временем существования модного дома. Парфюмерная линия бренда не обновлялась уже более 30 лет, с момента выхода аромата Miss Dior в 1947 году.

В 1982 году президент компании Maurice Roger принял решение о создании нового необычного поражающего воображение аромата, который сможет вернуть дому былую славу. В разработке участвовало более 800 образцов, из которых был выбран аромат созданный частным парфюмером Edouard Flechier.  Название аромату дал сам его автор, взяв за основу  афоризм французского поэта Поля Валери: «Духи – это яд для сердца».

Старт продаж стал настоящим событием. Рекламная компания аромата обошлась модному дому в огромную по тем временам сумму 10 миллионов долларов, но эти затраты с лихвой были окуплены восхищенной , ждавшей появления на прилавках новинки публикой.

В 1987 году Dior Poison получил премию FiFi Awards в номинации «Женская парфюмерия года класса Люкс».

POISON DIOR

Аромат положивший начало всей линейке.

Восточный пряный, немного душащий. Одна капля этого «яда» способна сделать из своей хозяйки настоящую даму роскошную даму высшего света. Ну а другой каплей «задушить» все ее окружение.

 

Парфюмер: Edouard Flechier

Год создания: 1984

Концентрация: EDT

Статус: Выпускаеться

Верх: Кориандр, Слива, Лесные ягоды, Анис, Розовое дерево.
Сердце: Гвоздика, Жасмин, Апельсиновый цвет, Тубероза, Опопонакс, Корица, Ладан, Роза, Белый мед.
База: Ветивер, Мускус, Сандаловое дерево, Кедр, Амбра, Ваниль, Гелиотроп.

POISON TENDRE DIOR

Спустя без малого 10 лет с момента выхода Poison Dior, дом выпустил фланкер, разработку которого так же поручил автору первого «яда».

Edouard Flechier переработал свою первую композицию «освежив» ее. В Poison Tendre уже нет дурманящих специй, на смену им пришли травянистые ноты, а в привычный цветочный шлейф вплелась бодрая нота бергамота.

Парфюмер: Edouard Flechier

Год создания: 1994

Концентрация: EDT

Статус: Снят с производства

Верх: Мандарин, Палисандр, Бергамот.
Сердце: Роза, Фрезия, Тубероза.
База: Ваниль, Гелиотроп, Сандаловое дерево, Мускус.

POISON HYPNOTIC DIOR

В 1998 году парфюмер Annick Menardo создает новый аромат Poison Hypnotic.

 

Страстный, сладостный и притягательный одновременно. Привычный цветочный аккорд в нем предваряеться гурманским фруктовым проигрышем сливы, абрикоса, меда и перца.

Парфюмер: Annick Menardo

Год создания: 1998

Концентрация: EDT

Статус: Выпускается

Верх: Слива, Абрикос, Ямайский перец.

Сердце: Жасмин, Тубероза, Ландыш, Роза, Тмин.

База:  Ваниль, Миндаль, Сандал, Мускус.

 

PURE POISON DIOR

В 2004 году, Dior снова порадовал своих фанатов выпуском нового цветочного аромата Pure Poison созданного руками парфюмеров Carlos Benaim, Dominique Ropion и Olivier Polge. Аромат быстро покорил публику своим поистине магическим очарованием.

Парфюмер: Carlos Benaim, Dominique Ropion,Olivier Polge

Год создания: 2004

Концентрация: EDР

Статус: Выпускается

Верх: Сицилийский мандарин, Бергамот, Жасмин, Апельсин.

Сердце:  Гардения, Апельсиновый цвет.

База: Кедр, Белая амбра, Сандал

PURE POISON ELIXIR DIOR

В 2006 году Dior решают вновь «освежить» легендарную линейку и выпускают  Pure Poison Elixir.

Формула  аромата была изменена. На смену Апельсину в старте пришел Петитгрейн, придавший аромату экзотическую горчинку. А база зазвучала чуть более гурмански за счет добавления Ванили и Какао. Дизайн флакона так же претерпел изменения — привычный флакон оснастили помповым распылителем.

Год создания: 2006

Концентрация: EDР

Статус: Снят с производства

Верх: Петитгрейн, Мандарин, Бергамот, Жасмин.

Сердце: Апельсиновый цвет, Гардения.

База: Ваниль, Амбра, Какао.

MIDNIGHT POISON DIOR

Еще одна «вариация» Яда, увидившая свет в в 2007 году и сразу ставшая ароматом-легендой —Midnight Poison («Полночный Яд») Привычный цветочный букет здесь дополнен древесным аккордом индонезийских Пачули в базе, а в сердце аромата скрывается загадочная и фантазийная Черная Роза.

Парфюмеры: Jacques Cavallier, Olivier Cresp,Francois Demachy.

Год создания: 2007

Концентрация: EDР

Статус: Снят с производства

Верх: Мандарин, Бергамот.

Сердце: Черная роза.

База: Пачули, Амбра, Ваниль.

HYPNOTIC POISON EAU SECRETE DIOR

В 2008 году марка выпускает фланкер Hypnotic Poison.

В отличии от своего предшественника Eau Secrete  менее сладок и более легок — и в пир и в мир.

За «Мир» тут отвечает цитрусовый аккорд на старте, делающий звучание привычного аромата более легким.

Год создания: 2008

Концентрация: EDР

Статус: Снят с производства

Верх: Сицилийский мандарин, Калабрийский бергамот, Итальянский апельсин.

Сердце: Жасмин Самбак, Нероли

База: Ваниль.

DIOR POISON GIRL

Обновленную версию Яда выпущенную в 2016 году — Poison Girl можно назвать Ядом нового тысячелетия. И впрямь, ведь звучит аромат несколько по-миллениальски, стройно и в тоже время смело одновременно. Цитрусовая прохлада и фантазийный букет из Дамасской и Майской Роз — тут не просто ноты композиции, но штрихи к портрету новой Женщины Poison — современной, смелой, рушащей стереотипы и не боящейся маленьких безумств.

Год создания: 2016

Концентрация: EDР

Статус: Выпускается

Верх: Горький апельсин, Лимон.

Сердце: Дамасская роза, Апельсиновый цвет, Майская роза.

База: Бобы тонка, Ваниль, Миндаль, Сандал.

DIOR POISON GIRL EAU DE TOILETTE

В 2017 году Dior выпускает менее концентрированный Яд-  Girl Eau de Toilette

Автор композиции  Francois Demachy пытаясь по своему замыслу создать аромат «который сможет растопить лед» изменил композицию добавив в нее Замороженный апельсин, Грасскую розу, Карамель, Нероли и Гелиотроп.

Год создания: 2017

Концентрация: EDТ

Статус: Выпускается

Верх: Замороженный Апельсин, Лимон, Горький Апельсин

Сердце:  Грасская Роза, Дамасская Роза, Апельсиновый Цвет, Нероли.

База: Бобы тонка, Карамель, Гелиотроп, Ваниль.

О «Ядах» с любовью. Или полная история Dior Poison: 77 комментариев

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